Ratchadamnoen

Grand Palace & Wat Phra Kaeo

Upon his ascension to the throne, King Rama I moved his capital across the Chao Phraya River from Thonburi and built his Grand Palace here in 1782. Today the Grand Palace and its adjoining Wat Phra Kaeo – also known as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha – are the two biggest tourist attractions in Bangkok. The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo is a lesson in the fine artistic traditions of the Thai culture, so it is advisable to hire a tour guide or pick up one of the guidebooks at the entrance to get the most out of your visit. Of course, should you just prefer to wander through by yourself, you’ll also find the experience a fascinating one. Know your Emerald Buddha: The origin of Thailand’s most admired Buddha is a complete mystery, but its history is one of struggle between Kings and Princes wrestling for its possession. Originally housed in a Stupa in Chiang Rai, it was covered in plaster. In 1434 an Abbot noticed the plaster flaking off its nose and, upon further investigation, discovered the whole statue was actually made of what he thought was emerald – thus the name. It was later found however that the material was actually a block of green jade, but it didn’t matter, and the name “Emerald Buddha” stuck. Once discovered, the Emerald Buddha was moved to Lampang and then Chiang Mai by King Tilok of Lannathai. In 1552 however the Lannathai line of succession was interrupted and the throne was offered to a Laotian Prince whose mother had been a Chiang Mai Princess. King Chaichettha’s reign in Chiang Mai didn’t last long and he soon moved back to Laos where he ascended to the Laotian throne vacated by his deceased father. He took the Emerald Buddha with him to Vientiane where it remained for the next 226 years until it was finally recaptured by the future King Rama I, Prince Chao Phraya Chakri, in 1778. When Rama I ascended to the throne a few years later and built his Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo in 1782, the Emerald Buddha had finally found its resting place that you see today. Address: Ratchadamnoen Nai Avenue. Tel: +66 0 2222 0094. Opening hours: 8.30am-3.30pm daily (except days designated for official royal ceremonies). Prices: 200B per person (keep your ticket as it can be used to gain free entry to the Vimanmek Mansion Museum as well). Please note: To enter both the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo, you must be attired in long pants or skirts, shoes covering your whole foot and a shirt covering your shoulders. Appropriate clothing is available for hire at the entrance for a small fee. (back to top)

Vimanmek Mansion Museum

Known as the largest teakwood building in the world, the Vimanmek Mansion was built in 1901 by King Chulalongkorn (Rama V). The mansion has three floors holding a total of 81 rooms and halls, displaying a treasure-trove of 19th and 20th century royal memorabilia. Designed by a German architect, the building has a mix of both Thai and European architecture. For instance, the architecture is obviously European, but the construction was done in the traditional Thai style of not using any nails. On the death of King Rama V, the building remained closed for decades but was reopened as a museum in time for the 200th anniversary of Bangkok in 1982 by Queen Sirikit. Today it attracts thousands of visitors every year. Also within the compound are various other royal residences and museums, including the Abhisek Throne Hall and the Royal Carriage Museum that shows off antique horse drawn carriages used by the royal family throughout history. Address: Ratchwithi Road. Tel: +66 0 2281 8166. Opening hours: 9.30am-3.15pm. Prices: 50B per person (free with your ticket from Wat Phra Kaeo). (back to top)

Wat Arun – Temple of Dawn

Dating back to the Ayutthaya period, Wat Arun has always held a special place in the hearts of the Thai people for its historical significance. It came to prominence in 1767 when, after the Burmese had sacked the capital of Ayutthaya, King Taksin took back the city only to find it had been damaged beyond repair. Instead of rebuilding the city, he ventured down the Chao Phraya River and anchored here. The story goes that King Taksin arrived at the temple, then known as Wat Makok (the Olive Temple), at dawn and decided that this being a moment of dawn for a new Thailand as well as the dawn of a new day, that he should rename it appropriately. Thus the name was changed to Wat Chaeng (dawn) and made it the royal temple for his new capital at Thonburi. While the capital moved across the river with King Rama I’s ascension to the throne in 1782, succeeding kings always remembered the temple’s special place in history and frequently built additions to it. The final touches were added by King Rama IV, who also renamed it as Wat Arunratchawararam and today it is regarded as one of the most spectacular temples around the city – especially at sunset (despite the name) as the sky turns pink making for some great photographs. If you’re sightseeing on the Bangkok side of the river, you can still get to Wat Arun easily by taking one of the river ferries across to the Wat Arun pier. Address: Arun Amarin Road. Tel: +66 0 2465 5640. Opening hours: 7.30am-5.30pm. Prices: 20B. (back to top)

Wat Bowon Niwet

Thought of as one of the most important temples in Thailand, Wat Bowon Niwet was built in 1829. Its importance stems from the fact that King Rama VI, King Rama VII and His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej all resided here during their monkhood periods. Address: Phrasumen Road. Tel: +66 0 2281 2831. Opening hours: 8am-5pm daily. Prices: Free. (back to top)

Wat Suthat & the Giant Swing

Wat Suthat is known mostly for its Giant Swing outside as well as its beautiful murals and giant bronze Buddha. The temple dates back to the early 19th century and is one of the more quiet temples where you can enjoy a moment of reflection. Inside, you’ll find the 8-metre tall bronze Buddha that was originally made in the Sukhothai period (1238-1438AD), and is the biggest bronze-cast Buddha in Thailand. Also look out for the murals around the walls for the main temple and the other smaller ones which show the life and teachings of Buddha. Outside on the street you’ll see the Giant Swing which was used for festivals in which the monks would swing on it. Understandably it was eventually decided the practice was a little dangerous and it was discontinued in 1933. Address: Bamrung Muang. Tel: +66 0 2229 4026. Opening hours: 9am-8pm. Prices: 20B. (back to top)

Wat Saket & the Golden Mount

Originally built during the Ayutthaya period, Wat Saket used to be known as Wat Sakae, but was renamed during King Rama I’s reign. The new name can be loosely translated as meaning “hair washing” and was chosen as it was the temple where Rama I would stop overnight to wash on his way back from frequent trips to Cambodia. The main feature of the temple however is the Golden Mount, which was begun during the reign of King Rama III. It was found however that the foundations of the man-made mountain were too soft and wasn’t completed until the reign of King Rama V. Today the artificial mountain can be climbed by a slow spiraling walk to the top where you’ll find the chedi at the top containing a Buddha relic. The views from up here are also spectacular, making it all worth the walk up there. Address: Ratchadamnoen Avenue. Tel: +66 0 2621 0576. Opening hours: 7.30am-5.30pm. Prices: 10B. (back to top)

Wat Pho

Built in 1688, long before Bangkok was made the capital of Thailand, Wat Pho has been long revered by the Thai people. It is here that the famous Reclining Buddha is enshrined, having laid here in his state of perpetual bliss since its construction in 1832 during King Rama III’s reign. The 46-metre long statue has both his eyes and feet inlaid with mother-of-pearl and the statue’s position is meant to show Buddha’s moment of entry to Nirvana. The soles of the Buddha’s feet are in-laid with mother-of-pearl showing 108 auspicious signs of Buddha while the inner walls of the of the chapel are adorned with murals depicting the life of Buddha and his teachings. Various Kings over the centuries have added different parts to the temple, while it is also the home of public education in Thailand after King Rama III gave Wat Pho the status of a university in 1832. Students studied astronomy, palmistry, yoga, literature and massage here along with other subjects and today a massage school still operates in the temple grounds. You can even try out a massage yourself, making it the perfect temple to leave until last when your feet are in need of a little attention after a long day! Address: Thai Wang Road. Tel: +66 0 2222 7831. Opening hours: 8am-5pm. Prices: 20B. Massage: Half-hour 180B, 1 hour 300B, 1 hour with herbs 400B, 45-minute foot massage 300B. (back to top)

Ratchadamnoen Boxing Stadium

For many who visit Thailand, a night watching Muay Thai boxing is the highlight of their stay. Thailand’s national sport has stretched all over the world – at last count over 80 countries had national associations – and its popularity is never stronger than in Bangkok itself. There are two stadiums in Bangkok that alternate fight nights, meaning you can go to watch any night of the week. The stadiums are at Ratchadamnoen and Lumphini, and as a foreigner there are separate sections to sit in as you take in the whole experience, from the boxing itself to the atmosphere built up by the excitable crowd, many of whom have money on the outcome. The fighting you see today is not the pure form of Muay Thai, but a watered down version that is a lot safer. Apparently it all got a little too dangerous, so gloves were introduced as well as weight divisions some years back. The whole elaborate occasion is still observed however, in much the same way Sumo is performed in Japan. You’ll notice that before each fight the boxers go through a Wai Khru dance ceremony as part of their preparation as well as wear head and arm pieces that have spiritual significance. Also, overlooking the ring is a band which plays Pi Muay music all the way through the fights, adding to the noise in the packed arena. Fights have three judges presiding over them and points are scored for each hit landed. Fights last for five rounds each with each round lasting three minutes with two-minute breaks between each round. If you want to go, either turn up at the stadium at the times listed below, or contact your hotel concierge, who can usually arrange tickets and transport for you. (back to top)

Ratchadamnoen Boxing Stadium

Address: Ratchadamnoen Nok Road. Tel: +66 0 2216 4373. Fight times: Mon 6pm-10.30pm, Wed 6pm-10.30pm, Thu 5pm-8pm & 8.30pm-12am, Sun 5pm-10pm. Prices: 1500B Ringside, 800B 1st level, 500B top level.

Lumphini Boxing Stadium

Address: Rama IV Road. Tel: +66 0 2216 4373. Fight times: Tue 6.30pm-11pm, Fri 6.30pm-11pm, Sat 5pm-8pm & 8.30pm-12am. Prices: 1500B Ringside, 800B 1st level, 500B top level.

Wat Benchamabophit

The temple you see here today was constructed during the reign of King Chulalongkorn (1868-1919AD), making Wat Benchamabophit one of the newer temples around Bangkok. There has been a temple here though since the Ayutthaya period when it was known as Wat Laem or Wat Saithong. It was here that in 1827 that King Rama II’s son, Prince Phiphit Phokha Phuben camped his troops to defend against the Laotian Prince Anuwong. The temple really came to prominence however in 1899 when King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) built the nearby Dusit Palace and rebuilt the temple, changing its name to Benchamabophit meaning “the Temple of the fifth King located nearby Dusit Palace”. The design of the temple makes it one of the more beautiful temples around Bangkok. Designed by an Italian architect, it reflects the admiration King Chulalongkorn had for European architecture, complete with its use of Carrara marble and stained glass windows. On the outside, the temple forms a perfect symmetry, while its red roof tiles seem to glow in the sunlight. The best time to arrive at the temple is in the early morning or evening when the sunlight gleams off the tiles making for some beautiful photographs. Inside, the main golden Buddha Statue is backlit by a blue light, making it one of the more surreal temple experiences you’ll have in Bangkok. Address: Si Ayutthaya Road. Tel: +66 0 2281 2501. Opening hours: 8am-5pm. Prices: 20B. (back to top)

Wat Indharawihan

Well worth visiting for its 32-metre high Buddha image, Wat Indharawihan gives you a good look at the religious life of the regular population. Not known especially as one of the major tourist attractions, this temple is mainly visited by the locals. The golden Buddha statue stands upright and its feet are the main focus of worship here. Address: Wisutkasat Road. Tel: +66 0 2628 5550. Opening hours: 8.30am-8pm. Prices: 20B. (back to top)

National Museum

Dating back to 1874 when King Rama V opened the first public museum at the Grand Palace, the collection was later transferred to its present site and renamed as the Bangkok Museum, before finally taking its place as the National Museum in 1934. The Museum really is a good introduction to Thai history and culture. The Museum has three permanent exhibitions, namely the Thai History Gallery, the Archaeology and Art History Collection and the Decorative Arts and Ethnological Collection. The Thai History Gallery is an especially interesting one if you are new to the history of Thailand. Covering the history of the nation from prehistoric times until today, a visit to this gallery is a good chance to make sense of all the different Kings that you will have been reading about in your visits around the various temples. It is advisable that you get here before you head to Ayutthaya as you will be able to learn about the major players in this interesting part of Thai history, making your visit to the ancient city all the more fascinating. Outside in the other buildings, you’ll also find the Archaeology and Art History Collection displaying sculptures and exhibits from the prehistoric period, while in the Decorative Arts and Ethnological Collection you find a variety of exhibits of gold jewelry and precious stones. Address: Na Phrathat Road. Tel: +66 0 2224 1333. Opening hours: 9am-4pm Wed-Sun. Prices: 40B. (back to top)

Royal Barge Museum

Throughout history Thai life has been centred on the rivers that the people have settled along. This ensured easy access via the waterways which have become the focus of most transportation and community activities. Of course, the Royal Family of Thailand has also had an important role to play in the history and development of the country and so it is only logical that the Royal Barges Museum should be a fascinating look into the development of royal transportation. To get to the Museum, take a tour with one of the river boats that take tourists up and down the Chao Phraya River and finish off at the Royal Barges Museum. It’s a bit hard to find it from the road through a maze of cramped Thai houses so you’ll find it a lot easier to take the river boat. Housed in a big boat shed, the barges on show are apparently brought out for special occasions, but here you can get a good close-up look at them out of the water. There are eight different barges on show dating back as far as late 1800s and several were apparently used on occasions for war. Address: Khlong Bangkok Noi Canal. Tel: +66 0 2424 0004. Opening hours: 9am-5pm daily (Closed 12-14 April, 31 December and 1 January). Prices: 30B entry, 100B still photography fee, 200B video photography fee. (back to top)

Chao Phraya River tours

A trip to Bangkok would never be complete without a trip down the Chao Phraya River on one of the many river boats. You can get on at any of the major piers along the river, although the best tours can be found at the major piers like Tha Chang, Tha Tian and the Wat Arun Pier. The boats take you along the river and adjoining canals past various attractions like the Royal Barge Museum and various temples, but the real attraction is to get a close-up look at Thai life along the network of canals. In fact, mostly, if you aren’t paying attention you won’t even notice the major attractions because the boat driver probably won’t be able to speak English. But don’t let that be your main focus of your trip, because apart from being able to see a different side of Bangkok than you see wandering the streets, it’s also a nice relaxing way to spend an hour or so. Along the way you’ll see the traditional stilt houses that the Thai people have lived in for centuries as well as the odd floating refreshment salesperson who has all sorts of drinks and trinkets to sell you. They’ll try and sell you a beer to give to the driver, but it’s up to you to decide how many other passengers he’s had during the day buying him the same item! You can also arrange before you go where you want to end your tour so that you can continue sightseeing at your pleasure. (back to top)

Dusit Zoo

The Dusit Zoo may not look like much from the outside, but it has been nicely developed inside to become as much a park as a zoo. There’s a big lake in the middle of the park that you can tour on peddle-boats while the animal enclosures hold all sorts of species from all over the world, with the major focus being on South East Asian animals. The zoo has its roots in the park which was established by King Rama V, but it wasn’t opened to the public until the late 1930s. Today the Zoo survives and makes for a nice afternoon’s entertainment. You can either walk around the Zoo, or hop on and off the motorized train that circles the park. Address: Rama V Road. Tel: +66 0 2282 7111 Prices: 30B adult, 5B child. Motorised train ride 20B adult, 10B child. Adult presentation show: 20B adult, 10B child (Showtimes: 11am, 1.30pm, 2.30pm Mon-Fri / 2pm, 3pm, 4pm, Sat-Sun and PH). (back to top)

Romaneenart Park

Only a few years old, but packed with some interesting history, Romaneenart park is a nice place to have a rest during your tour around all the temples in the area. Situated just down the road from Wat Suthat and the Giant Swing, the park is built on the site of the old city jail. You can still see part of the old jail wall standing while the rest of the park is now popular for city joggers and after work exercise – there’s even a weight training area here. The prison that was here was built during the reign of King Rama V so many of the buildings in the area are also of the same age, making for a pleasant spot. (back to top)